The petticoat, turned inside out so the facing is visible
This red plaid petticoat for Civil War reenacting is very
similar to the brown one that I made for my friend (http://fabricoftime.blogspot.com/2013/02/under-it-all-wool-petticoat.html).
It is made out of wool fabric with cotton facing and yoke. First, I sewed the
large rectangle of wool to a rectangle of cotton about five inches wide. I
covered the seam with bias skirt facing, but I wish I hadn’t, because it made
the seam very bulky. I gathered the yoke to a waistband that has twill tape
ties inserted a few inches into the waistband, making it somewhat adjustable
without the added thickness of twill tape running through the whole waistband.
This innovation was my own idea, and I’m not sure if it has any historical
basis or not. Finally, I sewed cotton facing to the hem, pressed it to the
inside, and basted it. I have had the fabric for many years and don’t remember
where I got it or how much I might have paid for it. I used the entire piece with
none left over. The petticoat is very warm and comfortable, and the fabric is
so pretty that I wish it were a visible garment!
This hunting shirt is the first that I've tried to make. It went very well because I had help from an expert, but there were some small issues that I'd like to record for future reference. I entered this project in the Historical Sew Monthly (http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2015/) for September, so I'll start with the information for the challenge. The Challenge: Color Challenge Brown
Fabric:100% linen, unbleached tow linen shirting
Pattern: None--I used Neal Hurst's thesis, "Kind of armour, being peculiar to America: The American Hunting Shirt" (https://www.academia.edu/3336557/_kind_of_armour_being_peculiar_to_America_The_American_Hunting_Shirt), images including "The Surrender of General Burgoyne" by John Trumbull (http://www.aoc.gov/capitol-hill/historic-rotunda-paintings/surrender-general-burgoyne), and input from my sewing advisor.
Year: 1770's, though it can be used for about 1750-1800
The last shirt that I made was rather popular. Several people showed interest, and one unsuspecting victim lovely gentleman requested that I make two shirts for him. Alas, he has waited a few months, and I've finally finished the first one. If only I had completed these before I started graduate school in January! This shirt is 100% linen and completely hand sewn with linen thread. As requested, it has linen thread buttons sewn onto the cuffs and collar.
For this project, I bought Larkin and Smith's "A Manual for the 18th Century Shirtmaker" (http://atthesignofthegoldenscissors.com/collections/18th-century-shirts/products/a-manual-of-18thc-shirtmaking), which I highly recommend. It is informative and the techniques are professionally researched by examining original garments, advertisements, and other primary sources. I have some minor criticisms which should NOT discourage anyone from using this manual, just be forewarned that some of the steps are not clearly expl…
This post is research for a project. I am posting it on my blog because it seemed like a good way to organize and share the information. It contains only research, not anything that I have made. I will probably be editing this post as my planning progresses.
I will be making a civilian-style, commercial, Federal officer's sack coat and a Schuykill arsenal jacket. The sack coat will be a single breasted, five-button (using specialty officer's buttons) officer's coat in wool flannel. It will be lined in cotton flannel. It may need worsted wool trimming, as in the two inspiration photos of the officer with General Custer, but in most photos of junior officers, they don't have that trimming (according to Tom, my friend for whom I will be making the coat). The sack coat will have three outer pockets and an inner breast pocket.