The petticoat, turned inside out so the facing is visible
This red plaid petticoat for Civil War reenacting is very
similar to the brown one that I made for my friend (http://fabricoftime.blogspot.com/2013/02/under-it-all-wool-petticoat.html).
It is made out of wool fabric with cotton facing and yoke. First, I sewed the
large rectangle of wool to a rectangle of cotton about five inches wide. I
covered the seam with bias skirt facing, but I wish I hadn’t, because it made
the seam very bulky. I gathered the yoke to a waistband that has twill tape
ties inserted a few inches into the waistband, making it somewhat adjustable
without the added thickness of twill tape running through the whole waistband.
This innovation was my own idea, and I’m not sure if it has any historical
basis or not. Finally, I sewed cotton facing to the hem, pressed it to the
inside, and basted it. I have had the fabric for many years and don’t remember
where I got it or how much I might have paid for it. I used the entire piece with
none left over. The petticoat is very warm and comfortable, and the fabric is
so pretty that I wish it were a visible garment!
This hunting shirt is the first that I've tried to make. It went very well because I had help from an expert, but there were some small issues that I'd like to record for future reference. I entered this project in the Historical Sew Monthly (http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2015/) for September, so I'll start with the information for the challenge. The Challenge: Color Challenge Brown
Fabric:100% linen, unbleached tow linen shirting
Pattern: None--I used Neal Hurst's thesis, "Kind of armour, being peculiar to America: The American Hunting Shirt" (https://www.academia.edu/3336557/_kind_of_armour_being_peculiar_to_America_The_American_Hunting_Shirt), images including "The Surrender of General Burgoyne" by John Trumbull (http://www.aoc.gov/capitol-hill/historic-rotunda-paintings/surrender-general-burgoyne), and input from my sewing advisor.
Year: 1770's, though it can be used for about 1750-1800
We had a living history event coming up at Fort Dobbs in North Carolina. Typically, it's not too cold there, but for a change there was some December cold weather the weekend of the event. I rushed to make some mittens for my fabric dealer in time for the event. I used the pattern from The Packet III by Mark Tully (https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/306/1/BOOK-TP-3). Tully writes that this pattern is based on a surviving original from an American Revolution campsite.
I really struggled with this pattern. I checked my gauge, and it was perfect, but then I couldn't believe how large the mittens were turning out to be. I started over a few times, testing different needle sizes and yarn weights. I got pretty far knitting a version out of sport weight yarn on size 2 needles, but they were really thin and seemed like they wouldn't be warm. Finally I bit the bullet and knitted with worsted weight, as the pattern dictates. I used size U.S. 2 needles, smalle…
Last month, I wrote about researching an upcoming shirt project. Well, I made the shirt a few weeks ago, and I am so happy with it! I used Garsault's instructions from L'art du tailleur, which La Couturiere Parisienne graciously shared on http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/maenner/18hemd.shtml. I followed these instructions pretty closely since I am not yet familiar enough to sew on the fly, but I would really like to study several original shirts. La Couturiere Parisienne made the instructions very easy to follow, but there is a feature of Garsault's approach that I and my customer both disliked. The neck gusset is set into the shoulder strap instead of the shoulder strap. I'll illustrate with pictures below. It's fine for now, but next time I'll do it differently.
The neckline is stroke gathered to the collar, while the neck gusset and shoulder strap are sewn flat to the collar--no gathers. Next time, I need to make the front of the neck gather more loosely…