The petticoat, turned inside out so the facing is visible
This red plaid petticoat for Civil War reenacting is very
similar to the brown one that I made for my friend (http://fabricoftime.blogspot.com/2013/02/under-it-all-wool-petticoat.html).
It is made out of wool fabric with cotton facing and yoke. First, I sewed the
large rectangle of wool to a rectangle of cotton about five inches wide. I
covered the seam with bias skirt facing, but I wish I hadn’t, because it made
the seam very bulky. I gathered the yoke to a waistband that has twill tape
ties inserted a few inches into the waistband, making it somewhat adjustable
without the added thickness of twill tape running through the whole waistband.
This innovation was my own idea, and I’m not sure if it has any historical
basis or not. Finally, I sewed cotton facing to the hem, pressed it to the
inside, and basted it. I have had the fabric for many years and don’t remember
where I got it or how much I might have paid for it. I used the entire piece with
none left over. The petticoat is very warm and comfortable, and the fabric is
so pretty that I wish it were a visible garment!
This hunting shirt is the first that I've tried to make. It went very well because I had help from an expert, but there were some small issues that I'd like to record for future reference. I entered this project in the Historical Sew Monthly (http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2015/) for September, so I'll start with the information for the challenge. The Challenge: Color Challenge Brown
Fabric:100% linen, unbleached tow linen shirting
Pattern: None--I used Neal Hurst's thesis, "Kind of armour, being peculiar to America: The American Hunting Shirt" (https://www.academia.edu/3336557/_kind_of_armour_being_peculiar_to_America_The_American_Hunting_Shirt), images including "The Surrender of General Burgoyne" by John Trumbull (http://www.aoc.gov/capitol-hill/historic-rotunda-paintings/surrender-general-burgoyne), and input from my sewing advisor.
Year: 1770's, though it can be used for about 1750-1800
Last month, I wrote about researching an upcoming shirt project. Well, I made the shirt a few weeks ago, and I am so happy with it! I used Garsault's instructions from L'art du tailleur, which La Couturiere Parisienne graciously shared on http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/maenner/18hemd.shtml. I followed these instructions pretty closely since I am not yet familiar enough to sew on the fly, but I would really like to study several original shirts. La Couturiere Parisienne made the instructions very easy to follow, but there is a feature of Garsault's approach that I and my customer both disliked. The neck gusset is set into the shoulder strap instead of the shoulder strap. I'll illustrate with pictures below. It's fine for now, but next time I'll do it differently.
The neckline is stroke gathered to the collar, while the neck gusset and shoulder strap are sewn flat to the collar--no gathers. Next time, I need to make the front of the neck gather more loosely…
Back in the winter, I made this18th century coat. I think I finished it in February or March. A friend of mine had started the coat years ago
in a workshop. It was draped specifically for him. He had cut it out and
started sewing it, then set it aside for a while. He needed it for a
recent event and asked me if I could finish sewing it for him. It is
completely hand sewn--a first for me! I used linen and silk sewing
thread and silk buttonhole twist. I don't remember how long it took me
to make it; maybe around 20 hours. I actually enjoyed the hand sewing,
though I certainly need to get faster at it.
I had some really great pictures of this coat being modeled by my dress
form, but then my USB quit working and I lost years of photos D':
(sobbing emoticon). It's time to quit being a Luddite and embrace online
The coat is completely hand stitched and unlined. Since the wool fabric is coat weight and doesn't fray much, I didn't fell the seams; rat…