A much needed petticoat
I started reenacting the French and Indian wars era last year and very quickly threw together the basic costume pieces. Now, it's time to add more items to my wardrobe. I definitely need a couple of petticoats as I had only made one wool one to start. For the Historical Sew Monthly February 2016 challenge, I wanted to finish my 1750's gown, but I hadn't yet gotten to it. So, on the very last day of February, I quickly whipped up this petticoat. It's the same fabric as my gown.
These pictures feature the debut of my model, Penelope. She's been in my life for well over a year, but I don't quite know how to approach her. We haven't actually collaborated on any projects yet. Here she is showing off my petticoat. FYI, Penelope is significantly shorter than me and is incapable of growing taller.
February's challenge is about pleating. I'm disappointed that I ended up entering something so basic, but it's something that I truly needed and it also allowed me to enter the HSM. I used fabric for the waist bands and then attached tapes. Some originals were made like this and some were made with tape as the entire waistband. It was cheaper for me to use less of the linen tape, and it's also easier to attach the pleats to a wide waistband instead of a narrow piece of tape.
I didn't research this item too much as it's a very basic garment. There is a slide show on the 18th Century Material Culture website. I looked at options for waistbands and hems. For this petticoat, I measured my waist and cut the two halves of the waistband so that there's a two inch overlap on each side--is that too much? Next, I machine sewed the two side seams, leaving a 10" pocket slit. Then, I pinned the skirts to the waistbands, forming the pleats. I made wide pleats in the centers of the front and the back as per an expert's advice. I also made the pleats point outward on the front and in toward the center on the back, as per my fabric dealer's advice (also an expert). The pleats are attached with machine sewing, then I hand whip stitched the inside of the waistband. I hand sewed the 1/2" double turned hem, also with a whip stitch.
|1/2" seam allowance (not accurate, but quick and easy) and bar tack at bottom of pocket slit|
What the item is: petticoat
The Challenge: Tucks and pleating
Fabric/Materials: 100% linen osnaburg, linen tape
Year: 18th century
Notions: thread, linen tape
How historically accurate is it? Pretty good. Maybe 80%. There's some machine sewing.
Hours to complete: Hmm... 4? Most of that was spent pulling threads on the linen so I could cut it straight.
First worn: Not yet
Total cost: The fabric was less than $2 (I got a bolt of 23 yards at a yard sale for $20!!!!!!). The linen tape was probably a few dollars. Maybe $5 U.S.
|1/2" turned hem|